by Frank Sabatini Jr.

—[ hot eats ]—

Whisknladle

The La Jolla restaurant formerly known as Fresh[er] has been stylishly refurbished and renamed Whisknladle, which represents a change to homier comfort food with gourmet twists. Owner Arturo Kassel and Chef Ryan Johnston say the new name describes a philosophy that “what you put into the pot is what you get out of the pot.” Toss in the notion of a whisk and ladle parked near the stove, and visions of wine-braised lamb, homemade pasta bolognese and European fondue emerge. The menu also features savory house-cured meats, roasted bone marrow and sweetbreads to give foodies a protein-rich break from today’s ubiquitous lightweight California cuisine. Everything is homemade: pastas, bread, ice cream and even the syrups used for making some of the inventive cocktails.

1044 Wall St., La Jolla • 858-551-7575

—[ chef trick ]—

To add moisture and depth of flavor to chicken, dissolve about a half-cup of salt and a quarter cup of sugar into two quarts of heated water. Add in a few aromatics such as cinnamon, cardamom and coriander. Submerge the poultry in the brine, then cover and refrigerate overnight. The process also firms the texture of the chicken, making it easier to cut.

— Ryan Johnston, executive chef at Whisknladle